Just two weeks after we arrived in New Zealand, we had a 5-day office holiday over Good Friday, Easter and Anzac Day. (Anzac Day is like Memorial Day and Veterans’ Day combined.) Another senior couple, Jack and Joan, suggested we split petrol costs and visit the northern tip of the island, so off we went to see all the sites along the way!
We headed up the east coast and our first stop on the outbound trip Friday was Piroa Falls, where we took a short downhill hike to the pool.
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| Bob at Piroa Falls |
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| At Piroa Falls |
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Next we stopped to see the Waipu Caves, but after slipping in the mud at the entrance and seeing we’d have to hike in knee-deep water, we concluded we weren’t prepared and settled for rambling around the rocks on the hill near the caves.
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| Jan Among the Rocks Outside Waipu Caves |
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Our last stop that day was Whangarai Falls (pronounced “Fong-ga-RAY’). Bob and Jack hiked down to the pool despite the rain.
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| Whangarai Falls |
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| Whangarai Falls Pool in the Rain |
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We spent the night in a disappointing motel in the small town of Paihia, but it had the advantage of being just a few blocks from the Marai. A Marai is a sacred enclosure for Maori gatherings and ceremonies. Non-Maoris are not usually invited inside a Marai so we didn’t expect to actually go in, but there were interesting things to see on the grounds.
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| Bob and Jan Outside the Marai at Paihia |
These carved poles commemorate various chiefs who signed the Treaty of Waitangi with the British in 1840. Maori warriors traditionally make themselves look fierce and frightening by sticking out their tongues and showing the whites of their eyes. Combined with the tattoos (represented by here by carved designs) , it IS pretty fierce looking!
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| Carved Tattoos on the Head Chief |
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| Tongue and Eye Display on the Carvings |
Paua (abalone) shells are always used in carved faces to represent the eye display.
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| Tongue and Eye Displays |
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| Paua Shell Eye |
If you have a chance to see any of the World Cup Rugby games, you’ll see the New Zealand All Blacks (named for their uniform color) perform a pre-game Haka. (Haka is a ceremonial unison chanting dance.) The Haka usually includes the tongue and eye displays. Click to see a a sample Haka here, then back-arrow to our blog:
Haka and read a good two-paragraph summary about Haka in the History section of this Wikipedia article:
Haka History.
Next we went to the actual Waitangi Treaty Grounds. One of our favorite things at this beautiful historic site was the largest Maori war canoe in the world. It took 50-80 paddlers to drive it. I can’t imagine the dread of seeing something like this heading for your beach!
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| Maori War Canoe | | | | | | |
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| Beautiful, Intricate Carvings in the War Canoe Tail |
But if you REALLY want a measure of how fierce those Maori warriors are, check out what they had to sit on while they were rowing! These slats are only about 3” wide and they’d have to sit on them for all the hours it took to reach the next island.
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| Coach Seating on the War Canoe | | | |
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Here are the rails where the war canoes launch at beautiful Hobsons Beach for ceremonies.
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| The Launch at Hobsons Beach |
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| Hobsons Bay | | |
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| Hobsons Bay | | |
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There was a Marai open to the public at the Treaty Grounds, so we got to see close up the intricate weavings covering the walls. These are made out of narrow strips of cane—the same thing used to weave a cane-bottom chair. These covered sections of the walls floor to ceiling.
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| Wall Weaving at the Marai |
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| Wall Weaving at the Marai | |
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In the afternoon we took a cruise around the breathtaking Bay of Island. It was one of the most gloriously beautiful days in the history of the world!
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| Bay of Islands |
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| On the Bay of Islands |
We saw several pods of dolphins playing alongside us and took many, many, many photos of the blank surface of the water trying to time it right to catch one of the spectacular jumps, but this, alas, was the best shot.
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| Barely Visible Dolphin in the Bay of Islands |
At the far end of the cruise was the Hole in the Rock, one of the scenes in the film Voyage of the Dawn Treader. The entire formation is under water in some tides and weathers.
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| Yes, We Really Were There |
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| Hole in the Rock |
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| Almost Through...Without Being Dashed by a Rogue Wave |
We docked at Russell, the original capital of New Zealand. Our dinner at one of the outdoor restaurants was indifferent, but see the sunset! After dark we took the ferry back to Paihia and our motel.
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| Sunset in Russell |
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At dawn on Sunday morning, we were awakened by a bagpipe. It was a parade of about 30 men and women in uniforms of the various New Zealand armed forces. They were marching very smartly and solemnly behind a single piper. A few families were following them down the street. We didn’t know what it was about but it was far too moving to photograph. Later we learned this was a traditional Anzac Day dawn parade, honoring the horrifying losses of New Zealand and Australian troops at Gallipoli in 1915.
We went to church in the Paihia Branch and then for a Sunday drive in the afternoon. We saw miles and miles of green, rolling hills dotted with dairy cows, sheep, and sweet little white churches with red roofs—scenery so common right outside any town in New Zealand that it didn’t even occur to us to photograph it.
Early Monday we caught our bus tour north. It was cold and rainy so we were very glad we’d taken the Bay of Islands cruise when we did!
The tour cut across the narrow northern part of the island to the west side and we stopped at Ancient Kauri Kingdom. When the first explorers arrived, New Zealand was covered with dense primeval Kauri tree rainforest. Because the wood is unusually durable and very beautiful, and also because people wanted to clear the land for settling, the Kauri forests were almost logged out of existence. Today it is a carefully controlled crop and a highly prized and highly-priced wood.
By far the most impressive thing on display was the Kauri tree staircase. A huge Kaori trunk was found by a farmer in a salt marsh on his land. Estimates are that it had been preserved in the cold salt water for about 2,000 years and this tree was 4,000 years old when it fell. It was so huge that he cut a 10-foot section out of it and then carved a spiral staircase up the inside of the trunk. And we aren’t talking about a staircase where your shoulders touch the sides, either! It was almost magical inside, polished to a high shine and like being in a spiraling chamber of amber, only with a beautiful grain.
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| Entrance to the Spiral Staircase Inside the Kauri Tree Trunk |
Our bus drove for miles right up the sand of Ninety Mile Beach and stopped for us to enjoy the Tasman Sea, but you can tell by Bob’s picture that it wasn’t much of a day for the beach.
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| Bob at the Tasman Sea on Ninety Mile Beach |
By the time we reached the famous Giant Dunes our camera was so damp it quit, so we have no photos of Bob surf-boarding down the dunes. The wind was blowing so much he said it took a long time getting the sand out of his teeth afterward, too.
Cape Reinga—the northernmost accessible point of the island—is sacred to the Maori because they believe it is the departure point for their spirits to the afterlife. It’s traditional to sing a greeting song to the ancient spirit rulers there, so our Maori driver sang us in. By the time we got there the weather had deteriorated so much that he gave us some cautions about hiking down to the lighthouse:
- If you are wearing glasses, mind they don’t blow off your face.
- If you have small children, mind they don’t blow off the trail down the cliff.
Hearing that, Jan decided she wasn’t sure-footed enough for the hike, but Bob went down to the lighthouse. He said the rain actually hurt, and he felt like one of those TV reporters out in the midst of a hurricane. See how his rain-cape is blowing sideways? This was OUT of the wind! There was enough visibility to see the turbulent convergence of the Tasman and the Pacific, but not enough to see the Three Kings Islands.
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| Bob in the Rain at Cape Reinga Lighthouse |
On Tuesday we left the motel in Paihia behind and headed for Haruru Falls just on the outskirts of town.
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| Bob on the Edge at Haruru Falls |
Afterward we crossed to the west coast and started south, stopping at Wiapoua Forest. This is one of the remaining stands of Kauri rainforest. You can see it was cool, damp, and shady under the canopy. All the Kauri forest reserves have suspended wooden walkways because the root systems are very fragile. Treading on the roots can actually kill one of the great trees.
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| In the Kauri Rainforest at Wiapoua |
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| Elevated Walkways in the Rainforest Reserves--for People and Ewoks |
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Waipoua is where the largest Kauri tree in the world lives. It even has a name: Tane Mahuta (TAH-nay Mah-HOO-tah), meaning Lord of the Forest. In Maori legend, it was Tane Mahuta who split apart the embrace of his father the sky and his mother the earth so there would be space in between earth and sky for people to live.
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| Bob and Jan Visiting Tane Mahuta |
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| Part of Tane Mahuta Visible Below the Canopy. (See the Tiny People in the Foreground?) | | |
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We traveled well off the beaten path to climb the historic Lookout Tower and got briefly lost trying to find the beaten track again afterward, but the scenery was worth it! Remember how we said the sky is always beautiful?
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| View from the Lookout Tower |
A wonderful trip and a great introduction to the beautiful scenery in New Zealand.